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Category Archives: thoughts

In the land of "13 months of Sunshine"

22 Sunday Nov 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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Ethiopia

It has definitely been a whirlwind these past few months. But I am happy to say that bit by bit I am starting to settle down in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. I have been lucky to get the opportunity to travel outside of Addis. Thus far I have visited the Amhara region around Lake Tana (Source of the Blue Nile). Work has consumed most of my time as a result I have neglected my blogging. I hope to update every so often and post pictures of the regions I have visited. For now enjoying the place and slowly discovering what Ethiopia has to offer.

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Blackout

20 Monday Apr 2009

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electricity, khartoum, Sudan, weather

Over the past week and into this week the power across Khartoum has been blacking-out for increasingly longer periods. All is the result of technical problems with the integration of hydro-generated power from Meroe Dam in Northern Sudan. The Dam hailed as an infrastructural triumph and the largest project of its kind on the continent of Africa. It seems that now that it is up and running it has failed to live up to the hype. Granted engineers are working around the clock to remedy the problem. But in the meantime we residents are living in excruciating agony as we struggle to move about with lack of electricity under such scorching hot conditions.

Daily highs these days regularly hover in the 50 (degree Celsius). It is as if someone is playing a cruel joke and hovering a magnifying glass above your head. It honestly feels as if the sun’s rays are directly above you. To make matters worse, the moment you step outside “samoom” dreadfully hot gusts of air (not sure if there is an English equivalent to that word) ungraciously slaps you in the face. For anyone not familiar with the feeling of such gusts, it is akin to placing your face in close proximity to an over as you come to open it and the burst of smouldering compressed air greets your face, similar experience to samoom except you can’t escape it.

Power has going out for 6-12 hour periods at a time. It now seems that it is scheduled blackouts as some areas of the city are experiencing these blackouts during the day (from sunrise till near sunrise) and others in the evenings starting from sundown till the near midnight or beyond.

The current joke in town, as this is Sudan and no one has faith that anything can be accomplished properly that instead of providing electricity, the new dam has started sucking out power from the network. In reality there actually isn’t a problem with the dam itself and it is theoretically capable of providing all the power officials boasted about. The problem most likely lies in the network that in some regions of the city is dilapidated and in need of rehabilitation or replacement.

As I currently write this we are currently experiencing such a blackout and I’m relying on my remaining laptop battery power to briefly entertain me. I have found some relief by soaking a piece of thin cotton cloth in water and laying it over my head and neck. I have no idea when this torture will be over but I pray to god they find a solution pronto!!!!

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Tales from the watering hole

23 Monday Mar 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts, Travel

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Gadarif, Kunaina, Sudan, water

For the past few days, I’ve spent the majority of my in the village of Kunaina Albeer, located on the Sudan-Ethiopia border. A mere 10 km away, and one would be walking on Ethiopian soil and all that seperates the two nations is a mere seasonal gorge that is dry most of the year.

The 140km trip from the city of El Gadarif, the prominent thatched huts that are indigenous of this region come into full view. Although labelled as a village, Kunaina is more like a small town with over 8,000 inhabitants and a sizable local market. It’s an interesting village, one that surprisingly has high representation of various ethnic groups from across Sudan. Many came and settled for agricultural purposes. Others such as Huasa and Fulani (known as Falata in Sudan) groups with roots in West Africa (Nigeria, Ghana,etc) crossed the continent on route to Mecca and have since settled and became integrated into the melting pot of Sudanese society. These groups in addition to ethnic groups from Northern and Western Sudan along side numerous Ethiopians and Eritreans who also now El Gadarif home.

Most of the time was spent in the vicinity of the water station. Although not a watering hole, residents living on the outskirts of the village come into the water station to fill up. It’s mostly kids who were present collecting water. So by default it has become the local hangout spot. So with donkeys in tow children and teens line up and chat while filling up their water containers/ bags. Talks these days surrounded the exam timetable for some and the grueling load of memorization that awaits them. Others with their minds elsewhere, were discussing means of upgrading or buying bikes. A few had their heads in the clouds discussing, mobile phones they have seen some village elders carrying.

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Dirty water cannot be washed

19 Thursday Mar 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts, world water day

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Suda, water, World Water Day

So many of us take for granted clean water and somewhere to go to the bathroom, but the reality is that the vast majority of the world’s residents, Sudan included lack access to these basic services. At that, the world’s water resources are rapidly being polluted. As an african proverb stated in the post title says it appropriately points out that dirty water cannot be washed.

World Water Day- March 22 will be celebrated worldwide this year on this coming Sunday. Currently in the process of celebrating this day and bringing to light the monumental issues facing billions of people worldwide. This year the international theme is trans-boundary waters-shared waters, shared opportunities. Nationally, alongside the international theme, it has been decided to add additional messages to suit WASH initiatives. The national slogan is “Share the responsibility for the management of water sources and sanitation promotion” This year the national program will take place with promotional programs in El Gadarif (in Eastern Sudan). The Water Supply & Sanitation Collaborative Council (WSSCC) has a great campaign materials to highlight this sectors burgeoning problems:

 

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One step forward….ten steps back?

07 Saturday Mar 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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Bashir, ICC, khartoum, NGOs

The ICC officially issued its arrest warrant for Sudanese President Omar Al-Bashir last Wednesday around 4pm Khartoum local time. The wearily anticipated news has had everyone on edge for some time now. Some fearing violence would erupt immediately after the press conference. Thankfully, no violence, just thousands of people out in a government organized protest in central Khartoum. Thursday was followed by more protests that drew even larger crowds. All government offices were given the day off and were highly encouraged to attend these protests.

It took me a couple of days to sit down and write this because I wanted to get a feel for various murmurs and whispers that underlined the roars of Al-Bashir supporters. It’s all over the headlines; every major news agency has covered the immediate reaction of the government and Bashir’s defiant dance to the West.

The general consensus here in the capital is that the issuance of this warrant is regrettable. Not necessarily because they are sympathetic with the president but more so worried about the outcome of this event. Many fear that this will lead Sudan into a downward spiral with its citizens bearing the brunt, particularly those in Darfur.

As someone who grew up in the West, I could understand how someone outside this country can see it in black and white….yes Al-Bashir should be tried at the ICC. But having spent time here working, I have begun appreciate the point of views of citizens of this country. I cannot say that there is a homogenous Sudanese point of view, but getting the chance to hear varied voices has led me to reevaluate this situation. The situation is far more complex and a message such as the ICC’s indictment has some serious consequences. From a western point, the approach to this entire situation is 1 dimensional. I would say many of the repercussions of this indictment were not fully accounted for.

Politics and self-appointed political figures and pundits aside, the voices of regular citizens speak volumes and shove all the propaganda aside. From what I have gathered even those who strongly opposed Al-Bashir and his regime, are not in favor of the ICC’s decision, for the following reasons:

  1. Dislike for the government aside, many see it as a ploy by Western nations to meddle in Sudanese affairs and extort its natural resources. Bottom line they do not feel that anyone actually cares about the citizens of Sudan but are actually pushing for this indictment for ulterior motives. There is a very strong vibe of mistrust of the West here.
  2. Some see it as another Iraq waiting to happen. Even though many Iraqis hated Saddam, he was the glue that held the country together. With so many ethnic groups in Sudan and the fragile North-South peace deal, Al-Bashir in a way is the glue that is holding this country together.
  3. Others believe that it should not be a Western power (or Western backed power in the case of the ICC) to bring Al-Bashir to justice. “Sudanese people should find a solution to a Sudanese problem” one guy told me.
  4. this warrant will ruin the country economically and millions will suffer as a result
  5. The constant bombardment of propaganda from government and opposing groups will dominate the local media. All attention will be directed to this issue and everything else will be put in the backburner.
  6. forget the word DEVELOPMENT… as now all focus will be directed to battling the “evil Western powers who are trying to bring down this nation”

Although the ICC’s chief prosecutor Luis Moreno-Ocampo, now a household name in Sudan stated the greatest implication of this warrant will fall on Al-Bashir himself as it will restrict his international travel, many see that will not be the case. The ICC has no enforcement powers and many countries are not signatories of the Rome Stature, which created the ICC in the first place. Many believe the ICC and “Ocambo” are “not firmly planted on the ground” implying that they are not being realistic to believe that Sudan will comply and hand over Al-Bashir, especially since they have already vehemently refused to turn over 2 other government supporters/officials heavily implicated in the Darfur crisis.

What is more unfortunate and appalling is the government’s decision to expel 13 NGOs, which were some of the most active in delivering basic needs and services to hundreds of thousands of people. For someone how is currently working in the development sector this decision is making my head spin. Really I cannot fathom how the government or the remaining agencies will be able to fill the gap of those who were expelled.

In talking to friends and acquaintances in some of the expelled NGOs, the mood is frantic and melancholy. The means by which the government went about expelling these organizations is uncalled for. Many have had many of their possessions seized, not even being able to take paper from their offices….. they were told to evacuate immediately. But even that could not happen as many who made it to Khartoum are currently waiting to get exit visas, which are complicated further by the cumbersome government bureaucracy.

I really do hope the government rethinks this decision as it is detrimental to the well being of hundreds of thousands if not millions of Sudanese citizens. When Sudan’s issues were brought to the international stage, I was excited as it finally highlighted the plight of millions who could not properly voice their situation. The past 2 years in particular were good in the sense that the government began to take notice and allocate funds to alleviate the suffering of those disenfranchised citizens. These past few years saw some progress in roads to inaccessible regions, funds to establish and strengthen government sectors working in developing the underdeveloped regions of the nation. The means by which the international community has applied pressure in recent years has helped the situation somewhat.

Sadly the ICC’s indictment has set the nation on the path to taking ten steps backwards….after its first step forward.

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Sudanese words of wisdom 2

24 Tuesday Feb 2009

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culture, Sudan, Sudanese proverbs

درب السلامة للحول قريب

rough translation: the safe path is closer to the new year

meaning/usage:take the known (safe path) which will ensure you make it to the new year (live longer), rather than taking a short cut (dangerous/unknown path) and putting yourself in danger.

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A Tribute to a Literary Great

23 Monday Feb 2009

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El Tayeb Salih, literature, Sudan

I have been meaning to write this post for a few days now to pay homage to Sudan’s more ubiquitous literary figures… Mr. El Tayib Salih. I’ve been swamped lately but needed to get this post through. Mr. Salah passed away on Feb. 18th at the age of 80 in London after a long battle with kidney complications.They say a picture says a 1000 words, and the Saudi Gazette summed up this loss so beautifully:

For me this author really helped me define my Sudanese roots and opened a door to my heritage that I lacked growing up outside the country. Although he published numerous novels and short story series, I have only gotten the chance to read 2 thus far; his most renowned book “Season of Migration to the North” and “Wedding of Zein”.Mr. Salah was born in Northern State, Sudan and travelled to London to continue his studies. As a result his book Seasons of Migrations draws heavily on his experiences of trying to reconcile two very conflicting cultures and realities. His work is a bold post-colonial statement that took me, as it did for many other readers, along for a journey where the young character is caught in the cross-waves of small, conservative agrarian society and the urban sprawl and ever expansive reach of Western Culture. This book was once declared “the most important Arabic novel in the 20th century”. Unfortunately his great work was never properly given its due, where many called for Mr. Salih to receive a Nobel prize for his exceptional work.Wedding of Zein, which is a collection of 3 stories (Wedding of Zein, A Handful of Dates & The Doum Tree of Wad Hamid). This collection, for me was much more powerful as it provided me with a compelling glimpse of traditional eccentricities of “al balad” the home country or indigenous culture. Despite its accurate portrait and specific descriptions of traditional Sudanese society, it has a universal feel. In the end they are small town folk, that can be anywhere around the world. The themes that are intertwined in these “folktales” can strike a chord with any reader, anywhere.The meticulous descriptions of the characters made me believe as my grandmother was sitting and narrating the tales of Zein and his tribulations to win Ni’ma’s affections.He is an iconic Sudanese figure, that truly gives and exemplary representation of Sudan and its people. At a time when this nation is known for civil wars, displaced peoples and oh so many political shortcomings, it is figures like El Tayib Salah that speak out for the voiceless peoples of Sudan. For that we owe him a so much gratitude.Allah yar7amak….

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Through the grapevine: expected ICC indictment

17 Tuesday Feb 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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ICC, politics, Sudan

Sudanese as a people are the biggest propagators of gossip. It seems that the entire nation is playing a long game of “telephone” where a fact or myth is modified a million and one ways. The result is a hodgepodge of hearsay and rumors.

Most of which are rooted in facts that have some validity but the extent to which the actual fact has been distorted is hard to estimate. So I have learned to take whatever I hear with a grain of salt, as there is bound to be someone out there who added a bit or deducted something from the original fact, or made it up to begin with.

These days a stormy cloud of uncertainty hangs over the nation. With the imminent indictment of the Sudanese President, Omar Al Bashir by the International Criminal Court (ICC), everyone here seems to be on their toes, especially those in Darfur. So through the grapevine, stories are circulating that once the official indictment is made public armed militias have been given orders to attack UN agency staff and related NGOs. As a result expatriate staffs are being told to prepare for the worst and expect immediate withdrawal from the Darfur region. There is no way of validating this fact. It could be completely fabricated. Regardless, no one is taking this threat lightly and are consequently preparing for what could happen.

Meanwhile, across the Red Sea in the Qatari capital, Doha talks have been taking place between Sudanese government officials and Justice and Equality Movement (JEM) members. News reports have indicated that both groups have reached a preliminary peace agreement, brought on by intense international pressure. The timing of such talks are uncanny, no telling if this will have any impacts of the ICCs decision to bring Al Bashir’s case to court.

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loss

03 Tuesday Feb 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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For the better part of this month, the thought of sitting down at a computer or even putting together coherent thoughts in a blog was out of the question. It was the first time for me to lose someone close, the process of trying to internalize and process the events taking place were somewhat surreal. At times, it felt like I was watching a movie and it will soon end… to some extent it still does. Having received the dreadful news of my cousin’s death in the early days of the new year, 2009 was forever marred with unpleasant memories. To make a difficult situation even more difficult was the process of trying to release his remains and bring them to Sudan for a proper burial; a wake, which was to last 3 days at most lasted nearly 3 weeks. I do not want to dwell on the events and what could have been. It is still somewhat difficult to process that I will never see him again.

I am thankful a good portion of my family was here or flew here to be together during this dreadful time. Their strength and solidarity has definitely helped in pulling our family together and shielded us this shattering event. I have come to realize that during moments of atrocity, one’s true nature shines through. Having time to reflect on what took place, along with my grief, I am in awe of my family for pulling together and supporting each other. Each and every one of them is uniquely beautiful and I am thankful to have them.

With time, I hope that it will become easier. For now I ask god to provide us with patience to move on. He is constantly in my prayers and I hope he rests in peace. I ask god to give my aunt to deal with this tremendous grief, as I can only imagine how hard it is to lose a loved one, let alone a child.

I will try bit by bit to get back to blogging as I start to regain some sense of “normalcy” in my day-to-day activities.

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new beginning

24 Wednesday Dec 2008

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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Sudan

It has been a while, and the intention was always there but never really got around to it. I’ve been back in the motherland for some months now. It’s been interesting; can’t say all has been positive but experiences nonetheless. Currently working in the water and sanitation sector. Loving the chance to gain experience, discover parts of this country I have never seen before and navigate the maze of cultural and subcultural protocols without getting lost in the maze of formalities and social customs.

This is my attempt to get back on the blogging horse. I’ve changed the look of the blog to commit myself to the new beginning. I hope to continue and I will try my best to blog often.

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