Tag Archives: Sudan

Better the devil you know

08 Friday Apr 2011

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On the heels of popular revolutions that swept desolate regimes out of power in Tunis and then Egypt, Sudanese youth frustrated by the current situation in country tried to follow suit. Despite numerous attempts to organize and stage protests, most groups around the country were met with very violent suppression of their activities and these efforts failed to garner large-scale support. Sudan and the Sudanese people are no strangers to popular revolutions. The will of the people triumphed twice to overthrow dictatorial regimes and put in place governments that are more representative of the people. Two popular revolutions later….. and youth are in the midst of plotting a third. Questions that come to mind is that after 2 successful revolutions, what has the country learned? and why has this third attempt been a relative flop?

From my limited spectrum, it seems to me that the ruling regime took in a lot of lessons, while the people have quickly forgotten. The current regime dutifully did their homework on how best to weaken the opposition. As a result within their reign, organizations that were hotbeds for resistance were quickly dismantled including worker’s unions and academic institutions. This led to a mass exodus of people from the country currently living in the diaspora. Fast forward to today, the government is just as technologically savvy as the opposition. They have cleverly infiltrated social media resistance groups and carefully followed every step of the process. Although this aided in quickly dismantling the physical protests that took place, there are other factors that have led to the breakdown of this movement.

It seems that the primary reason for this lackluster initiative is the lack in numbers. The vast majority of the population is apathetic. Their view is “better the devil you know” after decades of living under the rule of the current government, many are fearful that the next wave of “leaders” will be more brutal and more corrupt. So they would rather have a government they have grown to expect disappointment wrapped in bits and pieces of piecemeal relief (a road here, a hospital there, etc). The political and economic situation of the country is as weak and uncertain as ever, and those who weren’t swayed to join protestors  in the streets would argue that now is not the time….there are too many variables and the average citizens is trying to figure out how to put food on the table with the various austerity measures that have been put in place.  To add to this equation, the current government has a genuinely strong supporters who believe in their “cause”.

What lies ahead for Sudan or the 2 Sudans that will emerge in the coming months, no one can foretell. All one can hope for is that the political leadership has an ounce of pragmatism to steer the nation to more stable grounds.

Sparks have ignited a flame in Sudan…

30 Sunday Jan 2011

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A strong wave of student-led anti-government sentiments began to reverberate through facebook throughout the past few days as Sudanese youth mobilized their peers in participating in demonstrations against the current government. Given the recent events in Tunisia and then Egypt and Yemen, young Sudanese across the country and abroad called for peaceful protests on Jan 30. Prior to the planned protests, roughly 12,000 people confirmed their participation. The official website stated:

The people of Sudan will not remain silent anymore, It is about time we demand our rights and take what’s ours in a peaceful demonstration that will not involve any acts of sabotage, We will demonstrate against the rising of the prices, the corruption, unemployment and all false practices of the government such as violence against women and lashing them in ways that breaks all laws of religions and humanity and the violation of minorities rights.
It is about time we use our god given voice to demonstrate against an injustice government that is willing to sacrifice its people and its land to remain on the higher power.
it is about time we show what we’re really made of, it is about time we restore or lost honor, it is about time we fight for our god given rights.
our brothers in Tunisia did it and so did our brothers in Egypt.
It is about time for us.

* picture from Aljazeera

The pro-government newspapers were quick to denounce this “charade”. Prior to the planned protests several anti-government activists were detained and late last night cars were stopped and searched by police forces.

Early on today reports indicated that several student demonstrators were arrested. As the size of the demonstrations grew, police stepped up the violence, including the use of teargas to disband the protests. Videos of protestors were posted on youtube. Despite a respectable number of protestors, it is still unclear the impact these demonstrations had on the destabilizing the current regime.  Organizers seem persistent and are calling for similar protests tomorrow afternoon. In addition to the protests that took place in Khartoum, students across other cities such as ElObied stormed the central markets.

I hope that these demonstrations send a strong message to those in government. The Sudanese people have overthrown 2 previous regimes through popular uprisings. Although this government has done its very best to silence unions, universities and all institutions that have previously spoke on behalf of the people. Growing frustration among many Sudanese, could be a  catalyst to reignite the fervor that has always been in Sudanese blood to stand up for their rights….to speak up and for their voices to be heard.

It’s snowballing….

25 Tuesday Jan 2011

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On the heels of intense riots that have ousted Tunisian President Ben Ali, Egpytians organized a series of protests/demonstrations across various cities in Egypt to denounce President Mubarak. The riots have taken a very violent turn with rioters and police forces clashing and many arrests. Below is some of the colorful slogans being used:

قوم يا جرجس قول يا يونس.. بكره مصر تحصل تونس
ثورة ثورة حتي النصر.. ثورة في تونس وكمان مصر
قوم يا زين قول لمبارك.. السعودية في إنتظارك

rough translation:

Get up Gergis, Get up Tunis.. Tomorrow Egypt will follow Tunis
Revolution, revolution until victory.. Revolution in Tunis and also in Egypt
Get up Zein and say to Mubarak….Saudia Arabia is awaiting

Unity vs. Secession: thoughts on the Sudanese Referendum

25 Tuesday Jan 2011

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Over the past few months I have been continuously asked about my impressions of the Southern Sudan Referendum. As the days drew near and the week-long voting ended the questions changed to what are my thoughts of eminent division of Sudan. Preliminary results show overwhelming support for secession, which comes as no surprise. I can’t say I didn’t see it coming. It was evident many years prior to this vital decision point. Frankly I am a bit aghast by those who are grieving the eminent division of the country. Honestly the notion of unity crashed, burned and died along with the late Dr. John Garang. The late Southern Sudanese SPLM leader was probably the only one with a visionary view of united Sudan. To many in power it was $$$ that dictated their decisions, both North and South. In focusing only on the last 5 years post the signing of the Comprehensive Peace Agreement it is evident Northern powers that be failed to make unity a viable option for the South and Southerners failed to adequately engage with a government that was half heartedly (if that) supporting their cause.

For me secession is a decision that I have easily come to accept and for the most part many young Sudanese of my generation probably share the same sentiments. The decision to secede in the South is unanimous. For those in the North,some  sympathize with the Southern cause and can understand their desire for self-determination after decades of neglect. Others are tired of constantly hearing blames from the South that it was the North/ Northerners who kept them down, given that Southern Sudan has its own myriad of internal regional issues. It was easy for most Southerners to unite against one common enemy “Northern Sudanese government”. It those who are part of an older era from the North who are lamenting this event. To them their identity is somehow intertwined in Sudan that is known as the largest country in Africa, in a Sudan that represents more 500 ethnic groups and over 200 dialects.

In looking ahead, Southern Sudan faces tremendous hurdles to self governance. The region is desperately in need of development. Many in power today were part of the decades-long civil war, making the transition from war to politics can be a challenge. There are too many external influences and too many internal problems between various tribal groups that can destabilize the process of formulating a new nation. The North isn’t in the greatest shape either, standing to lose more than 80% of its oil revenues it has embarked on various austerity measures, which have sparked tensions and riots, well before the Tunisian revolution hit the airwaves. The events that unfolded in Tunis served as a stark reminder to Northern Sudanese governing powers of their precarious position and unstable foundation, that has made them fairly weary. With secession, we stand to see 2 very weak and fragile states that have a very tough uphill battle. The hope is that the oil, which is seen as a “black curse” in many African nations, could be the cure to insuring stability in the region. Both the North and South are starting to realize regardless of the outcome of this secession, they are economically intertwined and need to maintain cordial relations in order to sustain their economies.

Into the Blue, Where the Grass is Green

02 Friday Oct 2009

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I’m not doing such a good job of blogging as I go along. I have been meaning to write about my trip to Blue Nile state for some time. Since my return from Blue Nile I have embarked on several other work related trips. I suppose that is partly the cause of the delay, lack of time to sit down and get things sorted out.

Blue Nile State is South East of Khartoum, bordering Ethiopia. It is where the mighty “Blue Nile” enters Sudan from the Ethiopian Highlands and moves northwards to Khartoum where it meets the White Nile.

This trip was my first visit to the region. Parts of the state is part of a belt designated the “Three Areas”, which are regions across Blue Nile State, South Kordofan State and Abyie that border Northern and Southern Sudan. It is also where a lot of fighting and displacement took place during Sudan (Africa’s longest) civil war.

A visit to this region proved to be very enlightening. A sense of stability has definitely been restored in this region…slowly but surely, the rate of returnees is increasing. As a result there is much to be done. Many of the areas I visited for work were once controlled by SPLA/M and much of heavy fighting took place. Many of these regions are still littered with landmines. De-mining process is underway, but caution was exercised when walking around some areas.

This state houses a miscellany of ethnic people, at one point many were at odds with each other. I came across a variety of different tribes, with Arab, African or mixed origins. The most colourful…literally were the Um Bararo tribe. They take great pride in their personal appearance. In their case, aesthetics are just as important for men as they are for women. Men are often seen out herding with perfectly coiffed hair, kohl (eyeliner) and other forms of natural pigments they use for make-up. Their attire is decorated with numerous colourful trinkets.

Now little by little it seems that some common ground is being forged. Still it is evident when you traverse the state you run into different tribes that claim ownership over a particular region. Most of the tribes in this region are herdsmen, semi nomadic moving where they can feed their livestock. The remainders are farmers tending to their plots. As in many parts of Sudan conflicts between herders and farmers flare up tensions every now and then.

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It seemed that the entire state was covered in a brightly coloured green blanket. The gentle hills that at times are broken up by large rock formations were sparkling; the greenery was nice break from the sandy, dusty, hot Capital (Khartoum). Grass was plenty and we were frequently stopped along the way to make way for large herds of cows, sheep and goats. The occasional donkey or crowd of camels crossed our path. They are kings of the road around these parts.

Damazine, the capital of Blue Nile state is a fairly robust town. That’s usually awoken this time of year with all that needs to be cultivated, harvested and sent to markets in other cities or outside of Sudan. This year though, repeatedly, complaints about lack of rains were echoed. This issue seemed to resonate in every conversation I had with people living in the area. Although, to an outsider it seemed that rains were plenty. To the trained eye, there isn’t enough. I was told, the lack of rains in the highlands this year not only affected crop yields, it has dire impacts on drinking water supply in the coming summer season. I paid a visit to the reservoir at Rosiers Dam. I too got first hand account, as the banks of the reservoir were very low, at a time when they should be flooded.

Darfur Diaries: In pictures

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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Darfur Diaries: South Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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Nyala, the capital of South Darfur is a booming commercial town. Despite instability of the area, in many areas it is business as usual for local merchants. The streets are busy, markets are packed. Unlike its other Darfur counterparts, Nyala has a considerable amount of migrants from other regions of the country. Many from northern, eastern and southern states moved here for commercial purposes and settled down. Additionally, many of Darfur’s tribes of “arab” are indigenous to this state. The mixture of people around this city is much more distinct and noticeable. The effects of this conflict have definitely hampered business but merchants are making do.
Displacement of people is also more pronounced in this region, mainly because South Darfur in general is much more populated than the other Darfur regions. Its population rivals Khartoum state from the results of the recent 2008 census, which many have raised objections about. IDP camps have become enclaves that have extended the boundaries of Nyala city.
The weather here is much more pleasant. The rainy season is in full force. Mother nature has been kind this year to this region, bringing about plenty of rain. Vital water needed to sustain the area. Sadly very little farming takes place relative to pre-conflict era. Many of the land remains uncultivated, many have left their lands behind and moved into camps or major cities. Instability has definitely taken its toll on the livelihood of these communities.
Life during these conflict years has definitely had its impacts. It has definitely toughened so to speak the people of this region. Their attitude generally is expect the unexpected. It is common place to have armed carjackings, conflicts within camps and an increase in murders. Weapons are plentiful and can be attained with ease. Despite all these, residents of Nyala go on about their daily lives. Although for most, life as they know it has irrefutably changed, most know that you can’t just cease to exist and one must carry on regardless.
The presence of such a large-scale humanitarian operation, the largest in the world has dramatically changed the landscape of greater Darfur region. One cannot doubt that it has become a niche industry, benefiting many. Although many have their hearts in the right place, there are definitely some who profit from the instability and conflict in this region. And where there is profit, many vying for an entrance. Some are taking advantage of a chaotic and unstable situation. That is clear by the number of armed robberies and carjackings that take place. It is relatively easy to do so and there is little oversight as a result the success rate is high. The black market is booming with stolen goods, ranging from cars, electronics, weapons, you name it.
Unlike El Fashir and El Genina, it seems movement is a lot less restricted and tea and coffee stalls are packed in the evenings. The markets are open fairly late and many can be seen walking around the streets. Despite all of this, it seems that it is a false sense of security, as the currents can change in an instance.
I am not familiar with region prior to the conflict, but from numerous stories heard, it seems that Nyala was a golden town, capitalizing on its location and mixture of people to establish itself as a regional commercial district. Prosperity was attainable and many moved to this region in the hopes of financial and commercial success.

Darfur Diaries: West Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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The capital of West Darfur sits in very close proximity to the Chadian border as a result, there seems to be an interesting mix of people and smuggled goods readily available around the city. El Genina resembles more of a village that has rapidly grown into a town. The presence of UNAMID, government forces and militias are clear, somehow coexisting in a very fragile caldron. What once used to be the most peaceful city in Darfur has become the most unpredictable. You get the feeling that so much more is taking place just below the surface, but one is too afraid to peel back an inquire.

The landscape is intensely green due to the abundant rains. The wadis are overflowing with water and pastoralists can be seen herding their livestock on the outskirts of the town. Similar to El Fashir, IDP camps are scattered around the outskirts of the town. The situation in West Darfur is much more complex. Seeing the natural beauty of this area is somewhat saddening to see the instability. So much natural potential all of which cannot be harnessed due to movement and uncertainty. Movement after sundown is limited as is electricity. Due to continuous shortages in reserves, the power station is unable to function. For the most part, generators seem to be the most reliable source of power. The city’s power it turned on after sundown until about 1am after which everyone is under the mercy of darkness.

I felt much more tension in the air while in El Genina, I couldn’t attribute it to one thing in particular. Occasionally at night you would hear gunshots in the distance, the sounds were amplified by the stillness of the night and lack of electrical appliances to dull the noise. The mosquitoes around these parts are a force to be reckoned with. These bad boys can eat you alive, so my mosquito net became a very wise investment. Luckily the rains produced pleasant winds and breezes that made my stay a bit more enjoyable.

After a long day at work, it was nice to take a stroll by the wadi and take in the greenery, a novel sight in Sudan especially when one is accustomed to desert surroundings.

Darfur Diaries: North Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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I spent the better part of August in various parts of Darfur on work related trip. I spent roughly about a week in each Darfur state beginning with El Fashir, ND then El Genina, WD and finally rounding off the trip in Nyala, SD.

Most family and friends were not comfortable with my trip to the region although commercial flights leave to and from Khartoum on a daily basis. Roads are less accessible due to armed robberies along the way and this time of the year the unpaved road are made impassable by heavy rains.
El Fashir, dry, desert climate is akin to that of Khartoum and Northern State. Sadly although it was the rainy season it was evident that rains have not graced the region. As a result the parched landscape echoed in the form of cracked soil and achingly dry trees. The perennial rivers known as wadis lay dry. Considerable measures have been taken over the past few month to increase security. As a result, nights are much calmer. In the past it was common place to hear gunshots being exchanged in the night. People were uneasy leaving their homes in the evenings. Slowly there seems to be calm over this region. El Fashir town is slowly regaining some stability, but right on its periphery a series of internally displaced persons (IDP) camps continue to grow. Some of these camps have become established towns, with houses built from bricks and layout of the neighbourhoods. Markets are thriving in these camps.
The presence of United Nations agencies and joint forces patrol the streets. These organizations cars at times outnumber regular vehicles on the road. In El Fashir alone there are roughly 15,000 United Nations Mission in Darfur (UNAMID) troops. Honestly I am conflicted about their presence in the area. At times I feel that they primarily drain the natural resources of the region and do very little to protect the residents of this region. This is the case in West and South Darfur as well but their troop sizes are considerably smaller in those states.

Blackout

20 Monday Apr 2009

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Over the past week and into this week the power across Khartoum has been blacking-out for increasingly longer periods. All is the result of technical problems with the integration of hydro-generated power from Meroe Dam in Northern Sudan. The Dam hailed as an infrastructural triumph and the largest project of its kind on the continent of Africa. It seems that now that it is up and running it has failed to live up to the hype. Granted engineers are working around the clock to remedy the problem. But in the meantime we residents are living in excruciating agony as we struggle to move about with lack of electricity under such scorching hot conditions.

Daily highs these days regularly hover in the 50 (degree Celsius). It is as if someone is playing a cruel joke and hovering a magnifying glass above your head. It honestly feels as if the sun’s rays are directly above you. To make matters worse, the moment you step outside “samoom” dreadfully hot gusts of air (not sure if there is an English equivalent to that word) ungraciously slaps you in the face. For anyone not familiar with the feeling of such gusts, it is akin to placing your face in close proximity to an over as you come to open it and the burst of smouldering compressed air greets your face, similar experience to samoom except you can’t escape it.

Power has going out for 6-12 hour periods at a time. It now seems that it is scheduled blackouts as some areas of the city are experiencing these blackouts during the day (from sunrise till near sunrise) and others in the evenings starting from sundown till the near midnight or beyond.

The current joke in town, as this is Sudan and no one has faith that anything can be accomplished properly that instead of providing electricity, the new dam has started sucking out power from the network. In reality there actually isn’t a problem with the dam itself and it is theoretically capable of providing all the power officials boasted about. The problem most likely lies in the network that in some regions of the city is dilapidated and in need of rehabilitation or replacement.

As I currently write this we are currently experiencing such a blackout and I’m relying on my remaining laptop battery power to briefly entertain me. I have found some relief by soaking a piece of thin cotton cloth in water and laying it over my head and neck. I have no idea when this torture will be over but I pray to god they find a solution pronto!!!!