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New Home

24 Monday Jan 2011

Posted by nubiaNomad in Uncategorized

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I have relocated my blog to wordpress as it was very difficult to access blogspot from my current location. So here is to another new beginning. Thanks AaT for the push to keep at it.

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Lalibela- The New Jerusalem

20 Saturday Feb 2010

Posted by nubiaNomad in Travel

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Ethiopia, Lalibella, rock hewn churches

A few weeks back I took a trip with 2 friends to the town of Lalibela. Located in Northeastern Ethiopia, this town was once the capital of the Zagwe Dynasty and previously known as Roha. Oral history dictates that King Lalibela ( reigned from 12-13th century) poisoned by his brother in order to gain control of the throne, came back to life after several days of his death with a vision from god to build “a New Jerusalem”. With that vision he began carving what is now a series of 11 rock-hewn churches, intricately chiseled out of solid rock.

The result, still standing over 1000 years later is a spectacular wonder and architectural triumph. The site was the series of churches, crypts and grottoes are overpowering. No pictures of these grandeur structures parallels standing within their compounds. While traversing the narrow, dimly lit passage ways or taking the time to observe the intricate wall art, I was constantly in awe of the manpower and determination that it must have taken to complete such masterpieces. It is something you have to see in person.

We spent the day getting a history lesson as passed through the different churches. It was inspiring and definitely exceeded my expectations. The churches are still in use today and great care is taken to preserve them after hundreds of years of neglect. They serve as the epicenter for the Ethiopian Orthodox festival of Epiphany, where thousands of pilgrims descend on the town of Lalibela in search of spiritual rejuvenation.

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UNESCO has erected obscure “Swedish” inspired roofs to protect some of the churches from the elements that have not been so kind over the years. These futuristic structures blatantly contrast with their surroundings. Despite their incongruity these protective structures do not detract from the real attraction.

We spent the night in a quaint hotel or series of tukuls, but with a modern twist. It was a great way to bottom out after an eventful day of “Indiana Jones-eque” adventures. We even had the hats to go along with the character.

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Amhara

16 Wednesday Dec 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in Travel

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Amhara region, Ethiopia

I have been fortunate these past few months, work has allowed me to explore various regions of Ethiopia. Primarily Amhara region. I have visited Bahir Dar (Capital of the region) on the shores of Lake Tana several times to date. I wrote those 2 sentences weeks ago but my rather hectic schedule has not allowed me to come back and write my commentary of those trips. The least I can do is put some of the pics that I have finally managed to upload. They say a picture is worth a 1000 words, so hopefully these pics do the talking.

I didn’t take many pictures within Bahir Dar and more so of the surrounding countryside and rural regions. Much more picturesque. I will try my best to give you a glimpse of Addis in the coming days.

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In the land of "13 months of Sunshine"

22 Sunday Nov 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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Ethiopia

It has definitely been a whirlwind these past few months. But I am happy to say that bit by bit I am starting to settle down in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. I have been lucky to get the opportunity to travel outside of Addis. Thus far I have visited the Amhara region around Lake Tana (Source of the Blue Nile). Work has consumed most of my time as a result I have neglected my blogging. I hope to update every so often and post pictures of the regions I have visited. For now enjoying the place and slowly discovering what Ethiopia has to offer.

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Into the Blue, Where the Grass is Green

02 Friday Oct 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in Travel

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Blue Nile State, Sudan

I’m not doing such a good job of blogging as I go along. I have been meaning to write about my trip to Blue Nile state for some time. Since my return from Blue Nile I have embarked on several other work related trips. I suppose that is partly the cause of the delay, lack of time to sit down and get things sorted out.

Blue Nile State is South East of Khartoum, bordering Ethiopia. It is where the mighty “Blue Nile” enters Sudan from the Ethiopian Highlands and moves northwards to Khartoum where it meets the White Nile.

This trip was my first visit to the region. Parts of the state is part of a belt designated the “Three Areas”, which are regions across Blue Nile State, South Kordofan State and Abyie that border Northern and Southern Sudan. It is also where a lot of fighting and displacement took place during Sudan (Africa’s longest) civil war.

A visit to this region proved to be very enlightening. A sense of stability has definitely been restored in this region…slowly but surely, the rate of returnees is increasing. As a result there is much to be done. Many of the areas I visited for work were once controlled by SPLA/M and much of heavy fighting took place. Many of these regions are still littered with landmines. De-mining process is underway, but caution was exercised when walking around some areas.

This state houses a miscellany of ethnic people, at one point many were at odds with each other. I came across a variety of different tribes, with Arab, African or mixed origins. The most colourful…literally were the Um Bararo tribe. They take great pride in their personal appearance. In their case, aesthetics are just as important for men as they are for women. Men are often seen out herding with perfectly coiffed hair, kohl (eyeliner) and other forms of natural pigments they use for make-up. Their attire is decorated with numerous colourful trinkets.

Now little by little it seems that some common ground is being forged. Still it is evident when you traverse the state you run into different tribes that claim ownership over a particular region. Most of the tribes in this region are herdsmen, semi nomadic moving where they can feed their livestock. The remainders are farmers tending to their plots. As in many parts of Sudan conflicts between herders and farmers flare up tensions every now and then.

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It seemed that the entire state was covered in a brightly coloured green blanket. The gentle hills that at times are broken up by large rock formations were sparkling; the greenery was nice break from the sandy, dusty, hot Capital (Khartoum). Grass was plenty and we were frequently stopped along the way to make way for large herds of cows, sheep and goats. The occasional donkey or crowd of camels crossed our path. They are kings of the road around these parts.

Damazine, the capital of Blue Nile state is a fairly robust town. That’s usually awoken this time of year with all that needs to be cultivated, harvested and sent to markets in other cities or outside of Sudan. This year though, repeatedly, complaints about lack of rains were echoed. This issue seemed to resonate in every conversation I had with people living in the area. Although, to an outsider it seemed that rains were plenty. To the trained eye, there isn’t enough. I was told, the lack of rains in the highlands this year not only affected crop yields, it has dire impacts on drinking water supply in the coming summer season. I paid a visit to the reservoir at Rosiers Dam. I too got first hand account, as the banks of the reservoir were very low, at a time when they should be flooded.

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Darfur Diaries: In pictures

20 Sunday Sep 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in Travel

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Darfur, Sudan

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Darfur Diaries: South Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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Nyala, South Darfur, Sudan

Nyala, the capital of South Darfur is a booming commercial town. Despite instability of the area, in many areas it is business as usual for local merchants. The streets are busy, markets are packed. Unlike its other Darfur counterparts, Nyala has a considerable amount of migrants from other regions of the country. Many from northern, eastern and southern states moved here for commercial purposes and settled down. Additionally, many of Darfur’s tribes of “arab” are indigenous to this state. The mixture of people around this city is much more distinct and noticeable. The effects of this conflict have definitely hampered business but merchants are making do.
Displacement of people is also more pronounced in this region, mainly because South Darfur in general is much more populated than the other Darfur regions. Its population rivals Khartoum state from the results of the recent 2008 census, which many have raised objections about. IDP camps have become enclaves that have extended the boundaries of Nyala city.
The weather here is much more pleasant. The rainy season is in full force. Mother nature has been kind this year to this region, bringing about plenty of rain. Vital water needed to sustain the area. Sadly very little farming takes place relative to pre-conflict era. Many of the land remains uncultivated, many have left their lands behind and moved into camps or major cities. Instability has definitely taken its toll on the livelihood of these communities.
Life during these conflict years has definitely had its impacts. It has definitely toughened so to speak the people of this region. Their attitude generally is expect the unexpected. It is common place to have armed carjackings, conflicts within camps and an increase in murders. Weapons are plentiful and can be attained with ease. Despite all these, residents of Nyala go on about their daily lives. Although for most, life as they know it has irrefutably changed, most know that you can’t just cease to exist and one must carry on regardless.
The presence of such a large-scale humanitarian operation, the largest in the world has dramatically changed the landscape of greater Darfur region. One cannot doubt that it has become a niche industry, benefiting many. Although many have their hearts in the right place, there are definitely some who profit from the instability and conflict in this region. And where there is profit, many vying for an entrance. Some are taking advantage of a chaotic and unstable situation. That is clear by the number of armed robberies and carjackings that take place. It is relatively easy to do so and there is little oversight as a result the success rate is high. The black market is booming with stolen goods, ranging from cars, electronics, weapons, you name it.
Unlike El Fashir and El Genina, it seems movement is a lot less restricted and tea and coffee stalls are packed in the evenings. The markets are open fairly late and many can be seen walking around the streets. Despite all of this, it seems that it is a false sense of security, as the currents can change in an instance.
I am not familiar with region prior to the conflict, but from numerous stories heard, it seems that Nyala was a golden town, capitalizing on its location and mixture of people to establish itself as a regional commercial district. Prosperity was attainable and many moved to this region in the hopes of financial and commercial success.

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Darfur Diaries: West Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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El Genina, Sudan, West Darfur

The capital of West Darfur sits in very close proximity to the Chadian border as a result, there seems to be an interesting mix of people and smuggled goods readily available around the city. El Genina resembles more of a village that has rapidly grown into a town. The presence of UNAMID, government forces and militias are clear, somehow coexisting in a very fragile caldron. What once used to be the most peaceful city in Darfur has become the most unpredictable. You get the feeling that so much more is taking place just below the surface, but one is too afraid to peel back an inquire.

The landscape is intensely green due to the abundant rains. The wadis are overflowing with water and pastoralists can be seen herding their livestock on the outskirts of the town. Similar to El Fashir, IDP camps are scattered around the outskirts of the town. The situation in West Darfur is much more complex. Seeing the natural beauty of this area is somewhat saddening to see the instability. So much natural potential all of which cannot be harnessed due to movement and uncertainty. Movement after sundown is limited as is electricity. Due to continuous shortages in reserves, the power station is unable to function. For the most part, generators seem to be the most reliable source of power. The city’s power it turned on after sundown until about 1am after which everyone is under the mercy of darkness.

I felt much more tension in the air while in El Genina, I couldn’t attribute it to one thing in particular. Occasionally at night you would hear gunshots in the distance, the sounds were amplified by the stillness of the night and lack of electrical appliances to dull the noise. The mosquitoes around these parts are a force to be reckoned with. These bad boys can eat you alive, so my mosquito net became a very wise investment. Luckily the rains produced pleasant winds and breezes that made my stay a bit more enjoyable.

After a long day at work, it was nice to take a stroll by the wadi and take in the greenery, a novel sight in Sudan especially when one is accustomed to desert surroundings.

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Darfur Diaries: North Darfur

20 Sunday Sep 2009

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El Fashir, North Darfur, Sudan

I spent the better part of August in various parts of Darfur on work related trip. I spent roughly about a week in each Darfur state beginning with El Fashir, ND then El Genina, WD and finally rounding off the trip in Nyala, SD.

Most family and friends were not comfortable with my trip to the region although commercial flights leave to and from Khartoum on a daily basis. Roads are less accessible due to armed robberies along the way and this time of the year the unpaved road are made impassable by heavy rains.
El Fashir, dry, desert climate is akin to that of Khartoum and Northern State. Sadly although it was the rainy season it was evident that rains have not graced the region. As a result the parched landscape echoed in the form of cracked soil and achingly dry trees. The perennial rivers known as wadis lay dry. Considerable measures have been taken over the past few month to increase security. As a result, nights are much calmer. In the past it was common place to hear gunshots being exchanged in the night. People were uneasy leaving their homes in the evenings. Slowly there seems to be calm over this region. El Fashir town is slowly regaining some stability, but right on its periphery a series of internally displaced persons (IDP) camps continue to grow. Some of these camps have become established towns, with houses built from bricks and layout of the neighbourhoods. Markets are thriving in these camps.
The presence of United Nations agencies and joint forces patrol the streets. These organizations cars at times outnumber regular vehicles on the road. In El Fashir alone there are roughly 15,000 United Nations Mission in Darfur (UNAMID) troops. Honestly I am conflicted about their presence in the area. At times I feel that they primarily drain the natural resources of the region and do very little to protect the residents of this region. This is the case in West and South Darfur as well but their troop sizes are considerably smaller in those states.

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Blackout

20 Monday Apr 2009

Posted by nubiaNomad in thoughts

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electricity, khartoum, Sudan, weather

Over the past week and into this week the power across Khartoum has been blacking-out for increasingly longer periods. All is the result of technical problems with the integration of hydro-generated power from Meroe Dam in Northern Sudan. The Dam hailed as an infrastructural triumph and the largest project of its kind on the continent of Africa. It seems that now that it is up and running it has failed to live up to the hype. Granted engineers are working around the clock to remedy the problem. But in the meantime we residents are living in excruciating agony as we struggle to move about with lack of electricity under such scorching hot conditions.

Daily highs these days regularly hover in the 50 (degree Celsius). It is as if someone is playing a cruel joke and hovering a magnifying glass above your head. It honestly feels as if the sun’s rays are directly above you. To make matters worse, the moment you step outside “samoom” dreadfully hot gusts of air (not sure if there is an English equivalent to that word) ungraciously slaps you in the face. For anyone not familiar with the feeling of such gusts, it is akin to placing your face in close proximity to an over as you come to open it and the burst of smouldering compressed air greets your face, similar experience to samoom except you can’t escape it.

Power has going out for 6-12 hour periods at a time. It now seems that it is scheduled blackouts as some areas of the city are experiencing these blackouts during the day (from sunrise till near sunrise) and others in the evenings starting from sundown till the near midnight or beyond.

The current joke in town, as this is Sudan and no one has faith that anything can be accomplished properly that instead of providing electricity, the new dam has started sucking out power from the network. In reality there actually isn’t a problem with the dam itself and it is theoretically capable of providing all the power officials boasted about. The problem most likely lies in the network that in some regions of the city is dilapidated and in need of rehabilitation or replacement.

As I currently write this we are currently experiencing such a blackout and I’m relying on my remaining laptop battery power to briefly entertain me. I have found some relief by soaking a piece of thin cotton cloth in water and laying it over my head and neck. I have no idea when this torture will be over but I pray to god they find a solution pronto!!!!

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